© Mark Bialek

Pungent

Arirang reviewed

by Lee Lawrence

posted 1/10/2011

I come from a family interested in all things edible, but for my parents, particularly my father, limits do exist. A visit to a Korean restaurant, then, looked like a challenge. After all, the distinguishing characteristic of Korean food is a prevailing pungency--the heat of chiles, the funk of dried fish and shrimp, the sour tang of fermented vegetables. Some

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