Points south

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truly Latino rather than merely Mexicano-plus.

Their cosmetic changes are minor: they've cleared some space near the entrance, making the original lunch room feel less cramped. In the brick-walled dining room next door, photographs of places like Cuba and Peru heighten the pan-Hispanic atmosphere. But the most important change is a greatly expanded menu--in fact, three menus: for lunch, for dinner, and a unique and expansive weekend brunch.

All the old menu favorites remain, and they're still prepared by the same cooks. And though the prices have inched up a notch for some of them, Sabor Latino still lets you order a single taco or tamale for $1.99, an enchilada for $2.25, and a vegetarian tostada for $3.15. You can eat a little here, or you can eat a whole lot, at affordable prices.

Many of the Mexican dishes are fairly standard, with a few twists. Getting beans whole instead of refried is a nice change of pace--or would be if the beans weren't so plain and flavorless and the rice, both white and Spanish, weren't so bland and dried out around the edges. Also, Sabor is only one for three on its main meats--a good batting average only in beisbol. The beef can be rubbery, and the chicken ranges from passable to chew-toy tough. But pork fares much better: on a torta--a Mexican sandwich in comforting white-bread bun handles--the pork was savory and tender. And abundant, juicy pork was the only star of the masitas de puerco, a Cuban entree that was pretty but soulless: those blah beans and rice, a few slices of onion, and some lonely strips of cassava.